Newsletter January 2016

As the PCV drops

“If it drops below 15”, we went on, “Dixie is going to need a transfusion”.


We were talking about Dixie’s packed cell volume (PCV). In other words, the amount of red blood cells in her blood stream. Dogs normally have a PCV of 35 to 50 but Dixie had a disease causing her red blood cells to burst. Her PCV was just 19. She was severely anemic.

We had first seen Dixie 3 days previously. As soon as she came in the door we could tell something was amiss. Normally Dixie was a boisterous Jack Russell and happy to see us, bubbling over with energy. That day, she strolled in slowly, out of breath.


Her gums were pale and her heart was racing to pump blood to her body. She breathed heavily to take in as much oxygen as possible.


A quick blood test told us Dixie was anemic. On that first test, she had a PCV of 25 and her serum had a yellow tinge.


Dixie had hemolytic anemia. Her body was producing antibodies against her own red blood cells which was causing them to burst. 


Though there are many causes of this disease, the end result is the same. The lack of red blood cells causes anemia and the hemoglobin released from red blood cells causes jaundice (a yellow tinge also occurs with some liver diseases).


Dixie was immediately started on high doses of prednisone to decrease her antibody production. After treatment is started, it takes several days for the red cell destruction to slow down. Eventually the body produces more red blood cells than it destroys so the PCV will rise.


Until this crucial event occurs, the PCV continues to drop. If it drops below 15, a transfusion is needed to ensure the patient has enough red blood cells to transport oxygen until the disease is controlled.


Dixie’s PCV fell from 25 to 19 in 3 days. The following day it was still 19. This, along with a better attitude in Dixie, signaled a turnaround. The next day, Dixie’s PCV rose to 21. Further testing showed a steady rise over the next 3 weeks. 


Dixie fortunately did not need a transfusion.

Cat Bathing as a Martial Art

Some people say cats never have to be bathed. They say cats lick themselves clean. But, sometimes, kitty does smell or their owner gets an idea that they should be bathed. When that day arrives at your house, here is some advice you might consider as you place your feline friend under your arm and head for the bathtub.

Know that although the cat has the advantage of quickness and lack of concern for human life, you have the advantage of strength. Capitalize on that advantage by selecting the battlefield. Don't try to bathe him in an open area where he can force you to chase him. Pick a very small bathroom. If your bathroom is more than four feet square, get in the tub with the cat and close the sliding-glass doors as if you were about to take a shower. (A simple shower curtain will not do. A berserk cat can shred a three-ply rubber shower curtain quicker than a politician can shift positions).

Know that a cat has claws and will not hesitate to remove all the skin from your body. Your advantage here is that you are smart and know how to dress to protect yourself. Consider canvas overalls tucked into high-top construction boots, a pair of steel-mesh gloves, an army helmet, a hockey face mask, and a long-sleeved flak jacket.

Prepare everything in advance. There is no time to go out for a towel when you have a cat digging a hole in your flak jacket. Draw the water. Make sure the bottle of kitty shampoo is inside the glass enclosure. Make sure the towel can be reached, even if you are lying on your back in the water.
Use the element of surprise. Pick up your cat nonchalantly,as if to simply carry him to his supper dish. (Cats will not usually notice your strange attire. They have little or no interest in fashion as a rule. If he does notice your garb, calmly explain that you are taking part in a product testing experiment.)

Once you are inside the bathroom, speed is essential to survival. In a single liquid motion, shut the bathroom door, step into the tub enclocsure, slide the glass door shut, dip the cat in the water and squirt him with shampoo. You have begun one of the wildest 45 seconds of your life.Cats have no handles. Add the fact that he now has soapy fur, and the problem is radically compounded. Do not expect to hold on to him for more than two or three seconds at a time. When you have him, however, you must remember to give him another squirt of shampoo and rub like crazy. He'll then spring free and fall back into the water, thereby rinsing himself off. (The national record for cats is three latherings, so don't expect too much.

Next, the cat must be dried. Novice cat bathers always assume this part will be the most difficult, for humans generally are worn out at this point and the cat is just getting really determined. In fact, the drying is simple compared to what you have just been through. That's because by now the cat is semipermanently affixed to your right leg. You simply pop the drain plug with you foot, reach for your towel and wait.(Occasionally, however, the cat will end up clinging to the top of your army helmet. If this happens, the best thing you can do is to shake him loose and to encourage him toward your leg.)


After all the water is drained from the tub, it is a simple matter to just reach down and dry the cat. In a few days the cat will relax enough to be removed from your leg. He will usually have nothing to say for about three weeks and will spend a lot of time sitting with his back to you. He might even become psychoceramic and develop the fixed stare of a plaster figurine.You will be tempted to assume he is angry. This isn't usually the case. As a rule he is simply plotting ways to get through your defenses and injure you for life the next time you decide to give him a bath. But at least now he smells a lot better.

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